Author Topic: Contest 30 MK1 For bluewater  (Read 16908 times)

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Offline Duchess_of_montrose

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Contest 30 MK1 For bluewater
« on: 26 September, 2012, 06:09:58 »
I am the owner of contest 30 mk1 hull number 81. I was planning on refitting her for bluewater for at first an atlantic crossing from canada to europe via bermuda and azores and then eventually a circumnavigation when i have the time and money. I was wondering if anyone else out there has information on this boat and or knows wether it would be suitable for this kind of sailing if so are there any weak spots i should adress in my refit. I was thinking of changing the chainplates with regular ubolts of stainless steel wich they sell at a local chandlery, i beleive it is half inch material if i had a backing plate made does anyone think it would be a bad idea to use these instead of having chainplates fabricated. Also i was concerned about the mast beam last year while it was in the water i could not close the door so i think a vertical beam from the mast bea to the hull might work to adress this. Any other comments on the suitability of the design and of the construction quality would be helpful. I have found almost no information on this model of contest i cannot find how much it weighs or what the ballast is or any details anything would be helpfull. I apoogize if this is the wrong area of the forum to post this i am new here and i apologize for not being able to speak dutch.

Offline Jaap

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Re: Contest 30 MK1 For bluewater
« Reply #1 on: 27 September, 2012, 22:18:25 »
welcome to the site:

may be this is wat you are looking for?

http://www.contestyachts.com/media/928/contest-30.pdf

Jaap

Offline Duchess_of_montrose

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Re: Contest 30 MK1 For bluewater
« Reply #2 on: 27 September, 2012, 23:02:37 »
That is the wronbg contest 30. I am refering to the earlier contest 30 that has a doghouse and an l shaped setee. On the model overview page it is there but there is no documentation there. From what ive read here it is quite rare to find information on it as the zaal model you linked too was the most produced one.

Offline BJ

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Re: Contest 30 MK1 For bluewater
« Reply #3 on: 28 September, 2012, 09:38:21 »
There is indeed not that much information on the C30 mk1. It was build between 1868 and 1970 and designed by Uus van Essen. The design is quite typical for that era, the 'stepped' saloonroof was also used by vdStadt, Koopmans and many others.It's a very stable boat end with its semi-S hull and integrated keel also very sturdy. It was build in the days where strength was more important then weight, the total displacement is about 4200kg and it's all massive hand layup. Not sure about the rest of the hull but the transom is allready 12mm thick.
Mastsupport can be improved as you allready noticed, a good vertical beam under the maststep will do the job. A few other things that may need improvement for blue water are the cabin doors and -hatch, the rather large windows and it might be a good idead to add an extra inner (removable) forestay for stormsails.
I'll see if I can find some owners and ask them to join in on this thread. Hands on experinces are the best ones  ;)

Offline BJ

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Re: Contest 30 MK1 For bluewater
« Reply #4 on: 28 September, 2012, 10:03:09 »
BTW, some extra dimensions can be found   here .

Offline Duchess_of_montrose

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Re: Contest 30 MK1 For bluewater
« Reply #5 on: 28 September, 2012, 20:04:17 »
For the forward hatch i was thinking of getting a new lewmar ocean series hatch but what do you suggest for the companionway and for the boards, i suppose maybe thicker wood hatch made of oak might make it stronger, sealed in west system epoxy and fiberglassed on the top. also the engine access hatch i was thinking of making hinged so i can use that as storage space (i have an outboard no diesel anymore) so it is prime storage space. I also have strange metal cabin stiffeners that no other 30 ive seen has. I beleive it was added by a previous owner it looks like a strengthening of the cabinsides. I agree about the windowsso i am installing four bolts at the corners so i can attach peices of plywood there in a storm. I have found y rudder to be wobbly do you know anything about the rudderr tube construction and of what the rudder is made of im guessing its solid glass because everything else in the boat is im stilll trying to figure out what is causing the wobble because it has to be correcte3d before i leave. I agree on the inner jib stay i alm thinking of a removable solent stay made of amsteel with a tackle to tension it. What do you think of y plan to replace the shroud chainplates with u bults of half inch thick stainless steel. with a large backing plate.

Offline BJ

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Re: Contest 30 MK1 For bluewater
« Reply #6 on: 01 October, 2012, 11:18:45 »
A nice page to have a look at is this one   The text is in Dutch but the pictures are quite clear. These are modifications on a Albin Vega made by a sailor who sailed it all the way around Cape Horn to Australia. There are some good suggestions on the cabin door, a solid sprayhood and an inner forestay that you may use. For the windows you also might consider to put an extra plexiglas window on the outside, this will also help insulate the boat.
The rudder is a simple construction but you may have check the bearings and the nut on top because they can be wordn out. I'm not sure if changing the chainplates is a good idea. If you plan to use stainless steel make sure that you pick the right grade, it needs to be seawater resistent. But why modify the existing construction, if it ain't broke, don't fix it ;)

Offline Duchess_of_montrose

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Re: Contest 30 MK1 For bluewater
« Reply #7 on: 01 October, 2012, 16:39:30 »
I was planning on changing the chainplates because mine look corroded from the topsides havent unglassed them to see but i will be using 316 stainless steel and i will check with the local rigger when he comes and installs the mast tang for the solent stay. I was thinking of making it out of amsteel rope but am unsure where they sell tensioners. putting plexi over the doghouse windows is probably better than plywood because i can still see out of them, but i think the smaller ports will be ok on there own. I looked at the site i really like the hard dodger. is that boat berserk the norwegian albin vega that went to antartica. if not he painted ther same design on the bow in any case yes my rudder bearing need replacement, so i will have to drop the rudder for that. do you know if the parts are available anywhere.

Offline BJ

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Re: Contest 30 MK1 For bluewater
« Reply #8 on: 03 October, 2012, 09:49:50 »
I'm not sure if the bearings used 40 years ago are still availble, I also heard stories that back in those days they used whatever was on stock. Imo the best way to replace the bearings would be to remove them, take good measurments and just ask Google  ;)     I also had a look on those metal stiffeners you mentioned but I can't make head or tails from it.  Is it possible that they were used as backplates for some deck hardware of any kind?
One more thing on the solent-stay: if the fitting of the stay on the mast too low you also need runners. But I guess that the rigger can advice on that issue as well, after all he is the expert on the subjetc.

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Re: Contest 30 MK1 For bluewater
« Reply #9 on: 08 October, 2012, 16:51:55 »
Hi there,

our 29 mkI is pretty similar to the 30. A few suggestions: The rudder shaft had to be strengthened in our boat, it had a crack and was thus leaking. I took some layers of glass fibre and as I see we share the passion for west system. Some piece of wood to support the cockpit floor helped to take some pressure of the ruddershaft.

We supported the mastfoot by an stainlessteel construction and took out the rotten lower parts of the main bulkhead to replace it by a teak block. That gave some extra strength. If I was to go on longerv trip, I would certainly find a way to bring the forces from the rigg into the hull better than only bolting the chainplates onto the deck as is done up until now.

The draining capacity of the cockpit is on the low side. Due to the low freeboard you will certainly have waves in your cockpit more than once. So make sure to have the water out quickly, eg by installing to more 2" Seacocks. Doing that replace all other seacocks by bronce ones. That should give you a secure boat.

One other issue is the ankerbox in the bow. Originally it drains into the bilge around the toilet. This water caused the problems with the main bulkhead. So, what we did is close the anker box to the foreship, make it drain to the outside and have a inspection hole in the bulkhead. That also gives you the chance to enter the anker box from top, if you cut out that piece of the deck. I would say that good ankerequipment is crucial for bluewatering.

Have fun!

(working AND sailing!)
Regards

Alex

Offline marinaio

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Re: Contest 30 MK1 For bluewater
« Reply #10 on: 07 December, 2012, 00:23:52 »
Hi everybody.
I also have Contest 30 Mk1 of 1969. There is not much information about this boat in internet. From 2004, when i bought her, i have changed chainplates, shrouds and made a lot of small modifications. Yoy can see pictures here http://my.mail.ru/mail/igorkiporouk/photo?album_id=228. Some boat description on my site http://igorkiporouk.webs.com/boat1.htm Hope it will be useful to somebady.
Hva a good wind.

Offline BJ

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Re: Contest 30 MK1 For bluewater
« Reply #11 on: 07 December, 2012, 09:03:07 »
Hi Marinaio, thanks for sharing the pictures.  Great to see the photo's of Vanilla 2 anchored in Greece, we should all be in such lucky circumstances  ;)

Offline marinaio

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Re: Contest 30 MK1 For bluewater
« Reply #12 on: 29 January, 2013, 01:06:14 »





We are just returned after the trip along the Atlantic coast of Morocco. Here the first photos of my Contest under the sail made by the crew of the French sailboat.

con30num8

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Re: Contest 30 MK1 For bluewater
« Reply #13 on: 01 December, 2013, 07:39:42 »
Hey Duchess--

If you need 'em (just offered them on another thread as well), I do have some detailed line drawings showing the construction of the boat that appear to be original "blue print" drawings.  Might help you a bit.   I don't have 'em scanned, but based on posts it looks like it'd be worth scanning them in.

Also, if you're anywhere near Connecticut, USA, I'd love to compare notes.   I have a 1969 Contest 30 hull #8.

 


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